24 July 2014

The Gonzo Hunter - My View From The Road In A Heavily Fortified Vintage Camper - Chapter Eighteen - Elephant Seals, The Hearst Mansion, & The Best Damn Cookies I Ever Ate


Pulling into the elephant seal viewing area just north of San Simeon, I actually needed to put on a jacket.  I freaking LOVE the weather here on this part of the coast, it’s perfect for menopausal women and chubby men who get overheated easily (read - all of us in our 50’s).  In the parking lot, I noticed and took a photo of a van from British Columbia.  Similar to the Juicy camper rentals I had been seeing, but with one major difference.  This company was called WickedCampers.com, and had an image of a scantily clad woman holding guns painted on the van.  I went to their website later and apparently they are a pretty big deal; you can rent their camper vans all over the world and the artwork on each one is pretty cool - they even have a Fear & Loathing in Las Vegas one!  So check them out for something different for your next road trip - www.wickedcampers.com

Walking up to the railing where everyone was gathered off the parking lot, it soon became apparent why.  The beach was full of absolutely humongous elephant seals in various stages of repose, throwing sand upon themselves or undulating along to a better spot on the beach.  There were two in the water, oblivious to all and mock fighting each other.  I had a very enjoyable, fun 15 minutes photographing all of them.  Very cute, for being so big and also very dangerous. 

I am always surprised by the warning signs that are apparently necessary to keep some boneheadedly stupid people from killing themselves - “Animals bite”, “These are wild animals, do not go on the beach, do not try to get close to them”, etc.  I guess it always takes one idiot to dismiss himself from the gene pool before park officials say, “I guess we have to put up a sign now to tell people they ought not do that” so they don’t get sued, but really??  You have to tell people not to approach wild animals?  Son, I learned that when I was 3.  I guess some folk are very citified.

After viewing the seals I made a 30 min. stop at the Hearst Castle, which is just minutes farther down the road.  I would have loved to have seen the mansion, which is quite incredible up on the hill even when viewed from so far away, but I was rather shocked at the whole commercial venture surrounding it.  There was a huge gift shop, museum, food court and tour bus pickup center that made up the Visitor’s Center.  Each tour for different parts of the house were a separate charge, and each tour was $25.  So to see the entire house it would have cost you $100 and 4 tours.  A ripoff in my opinion.  So I browsed the museum and gift shop and actually learned quite a lot.  If you’d like to read up on the building of the castle, as well as William Randolph Hearst, click here:  http://hearstcastle.org/history-behind-hearst-castle/historic-people/profiles/william-randolph-hearst/

From the castle I made good time through the town of Cambria, but then got absolutely swept away by the little town of Cayucos.  I could have bought a house on the spot and moved right in.  From the climate to the private beach to the small town feel that they have obviously worked to keep, Cayucos is my kind of town.   Mom and pops abound here, and they are quality.  In particular is the famous Brown Butter Cookie Company.  If you have never tasted these cookies, prepare to be dazzled by their simplicity.  With just 4 basic ingredients, they will satisfy any cookie lovers’ wet dream.  I bought a variety bag of all of their flavors; it cost me $28 and I didn’t even flinch at paying that much for cookies.  They are worth it, trust me.  I plan to be ordering them online from now on.  http://shop.brownbuttercookies.com/

I walked back to the Tahoe precariously balancing a bag of cookies, some succulents in a big teacup planter, a cherry danish, and a mini pecan pie in both hands.  Tonight I would eat dessert first!  Pushing on, I soon came to Morro Bay.  Honestly, everyone raves about this city but I wasn’t impressed.  A big rock out in the bay, a nuclear power plant, and homes covering the hill ad nauseam.  I was happy to keep driving around the big bend in the map into San Luis Obispo.

As I drove through this college town, I wondered aloud what my life would have been like had I moved here instead of to Colorado.  Because before moving from Columbus, Ohio all those 20+ years ago, I had compiled a list of cities that were possibilities:  San Antonio, TX, Eureka, San Luis Obispo, Monterey, San Francisco and Denver.  I cannot recall now what my exact criteria was (Eureka?), but it was eclectic, to say the least.  San Luis Obispo actually made it to the Top 3, but eventually all were eliminated by Denver.  Which, I have never regretted to this day.  Living in Colorado has, hands down, been one of the best decisions I ever made.

Turning on my GPS, I saw I was very near my end destination for the next week, the
Seven Cities:  Pismo Beach, Avila Beach, Arroyo Grande, Grover Beach, Shell Beach, Oceana, and oh I don’t know what the last one is, you get it - a bunch of towns along the coast that all had to have their own city limits, fire departments, police stations, etc.

I found my KOA in Avila/Pismo and checked in around 3 pm.  They put me in a spot against the back fence, and, as I soon found out, backed up to the freeway.  Wonderful.  What numskull didn’t check this place out thoroughy before booking?  Oh.  That would be me, I would be that numskull.  The sites were also a little too close together for my liking, but at least they were all separated by a little privacy fence.  My neighbors were very nice and a little old man “helped” me back into my spot, (he loved Hammy and wanted to help, so I let him even though I didn’t really need it).  The sun was blazing down still so I got the A/C running as quickly as I could and saved putting up the awning until things cooled down.  I considered leaving to find another RV park, but I was here now and didn’t feel like moving.  I wouldn’t be spending much time here anyway.

I bought ice, finished getting set up, and took the dogs for a lap around the park.  There was a nice dog walk area and Jack and Bella quickly found their pooping spots.  Walking back to the homestead, I tied them up outside of Hammy and got to work putting up the awning, which was a bit of a challenge due to the privacy fence, but after a comedic hour of tying this to that and pounding in stakes, it was up.  I then put all of my other decorative items out:  the red retro stool with an antique radio sitting on the seat, my red & white checkered tablecloth on the picnic table with my vase of lighted fake flowers on it, and the colored lights around the edges of the awning.  Hammy would get much love this week, as the car show was in town, and there were many old timers about.  As people walked their dogs past our campsite, they would call out how much they loved my display and Hammy.  Yeah, it’s going to be OK here I decided.

Until next time, I’m living small and loving it largely.

Eli “The Gonzo” Hunter
For full photo album of complete trip, follow me on Facebook @ https://www.facebook.com/eli.hunter.94